The Friendly Islands

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Stromness Waterfront

An Orkney Yole Preparing to Sail

After 3 days enjoying the gentle delights of Stromness, and some good weather mixed with the rain, we sailed back out into Scapa Flow and down to Long Hope sound, where we picked up our favorite mooring buoy for visiting yachts.  The historic wrecks beneath the deep waters of the Flow seemed to murmur as we passed.

Big Skies and Deep Water, Scapa Flow

When, in late afternoon, Rosie suggested walking down to see the 1813 Martello tower and gun battery at Hackness, I was surprised.  She was tricked by the clarity of the view into thinking it was very near.  3 miles later, we arrived at closing time and yet were given a fascinating private guided tour by Michael from Historic Scotland.

A 68 pound Gun was installed in 1866 to replace the original 24 pounders 

We hoped for a lift on the way home but, even better, met some fishermen who offered us some supper from their box of fresh Mackerel.  We selected one each and they were delicious.

Mackerel Supper

If that wasn't enough, back on board Rapport, a passing fisherman tossed over a large scallop that he had dived for.  They are generous around here!  Left in a bucket of seawater, he opened up and extended a frill of tendrils, looking for food.  In the end, we couldn't bring ourselves to eat him and gave him his freedom.

A Beautiful Scallop

Next day, we walked the other direction, to the old Longhope lifeboat station, now a museum, sheltered behind Brims Ness.

The Old Lifeboat Station, Longhope

There, in the slipway shed, is an old Watson Class lifeboat.  She is still in working order, as is the slipway and it's machinery.  What a beauty!

On Board the Watson Lifeboat

All around were reminders of the bravery of the lifeboat crews and the dangers they face.  The Longhope lifeboat disaster in 1969 killed all the crew, many in the same families, and hastened in the era of self-righting boats.

After a second night on our buoy, rain and strong winds were forecast, so we decided that we would move round Crock Ness to Lyness, where we know of a snug berth in the dock.  We might even get to a concert which is scheduled for Saturday night.


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