Norse from Caledonia

On Saturday 23rd July, we were joined by our son, Dan and our daughter-in-law, Andrea who will be our crew for the passage through the Caledonian Canal over the next week. They stepped off the train at Oban into the dark and shockingly wet weather as we walked them round the harbour to meet the last ferry across to Kerrera Island. Next day, it was still raining and we set off under a lowering sky at 08:45 to sail the 40 miles up Loch Linnhe to the west sea lock at Corpach, near Fort William. Passing though the Corran Narrows Just before the Corran Narrows, we hastily put 2 reefs in the main and wound in lots of genoa as the wind had increased.  We also had to tack quickly as the Corran ferry had no plans to avoid the only yacht passing through this morning!  Dan and Andrea were having a rapid introduction to life at sea. Approaching Fort William along Loch Linnhe Later, the wind moderated and the rain showers became less frequent as at 15:00 we reached the sea lock into the ca...

We spent 2 days in Tobermory, soaking up the pleasures of civilisation and restocking our stores. Tobermory pontoons, seen from the coastal path It was nice to be able to step ashore and have a shower, do some washing and eat-out. After we had completed our chores, we had a walk to Aros Park, along the coastal path that runs from the marina. The path to Aros Park through woods along the waterside The waterfall - somewhere in the background :) Then on Thursday 21st July, we filled up our diesel tank and set off down the Sound of Mull towards our next destination of Kerrera Island near Oban, where we will pick up crew: son Dan and daughter in law, Andrea. Sailing down the Sound of Mull We were lucky to have a very favourable wind of NNW F3 and, with our headsail poled out, we had a  gentle passage along this sometimes stormy slice of water between Mull and the mainland to the north of us. The land to each side rose to mountainous heights, making it appear nearer than it was and often...

Summer has arrived in Scotland, yesterday with giddy temperatures up to 20 degrees, although this morning, here in Tobermory, a fine drizzle has passed over.  The forecast gave a 10% chance of rain, so they are not wrong.  I like to add the Scottish micro-climate uncertainty factor, which means; always expect rain. The Treshnish Islands were as beautiful as we remembered and the weather was very kind, sunny with gentle winds.  When the wind blew off the land, there was that familiar stink of bird poo.  There are a lot of birds, so there's a lot of other stuff too.  The guillemots and razor bills were gone but puffins, cormorants, ducks (of some sort!) and oyster catchers were all around us. Puffins Line the Clifftops of Lunga Puffin Burrows on the Cliff Edge We took the cliff path along to the guillemot breeding rock, trying to avoid getting dizzy with the long drops beside us.  The cormorant nests near the path still had big, fluffy chicks in them and hiss...

On Saturday 16th July, having visited the Priory on Oronsay, we caught the tide northwards towards the SW tip of Mull to pick our way through the rocky islets guarding the entrance to the anchorage of Tinker's Hole.   We had been warned that this place can get very busy at times as it is a magnet for visiting yachts. Bob Bradfield's chart of Tinker's Hole - rocks all around Tinker's Hole is a narrow alley of water nestled into a rocky landscape with boulders all around.  The previous time we had tried to anchor here, it had indeed been full of other yachts but this time we had the place to ourselves. Anchored on our own in Tinker's Hole Panoramic view to Starboard And to Port It was an eerie but calm place to anchor, totally cut off from our usual phone signals that normally provided us with a link to the rest of the world and to evening TV viewing via iPlayer etc. The following day, still with this spell of calm weather, we planned to see Iona, this iconic location...

On Friday 15th July, we set off from Craighouse at 08:20 in heavy rain to head south for the Sound of Islay (the stretch of water between Islay and Jura) with its fierce tides of up to 5 knots. Approaching the Sound of Islay Luckily, the rain soon stopped and we found ourselves in a blustery NW F4-5 wind with bright sunshine.  We expected to have to beat through the Sound, so we had again hanked on our No. 2 jib for this work. We turned to starboard, hard on the wind and prepared for a fast ride through the Sound on the back of the strong spring tide, despite the fact that we would be tacking all the way through. Beating through the Sound of Islay with the Jura bank ahead of us At the fastest point, we were logging a speed of 10.5 knots on the chart plotter. Now, it may have been sunny but we were well wrapped up, despite this being the start of a heatwave in the UK.  The air temperature was about 16C but the wind made this feel even colder. Keeping warm in the Scottish heatwa...

  Time to Reef Rosie was complaining loudly, that she couldn't steer the boat any more and that we were broaching.  I explained that I had to take a picture first.  Priorities are important at sea. Jura Ahead Another windy day, force 4 to 6, for our sail from gentle Loch Sween to Wild Jura, with dark clouds tumbling over the mountains. Evening Drinks, Craighouse Bay, Jura The visitors mooring buoys in Craighouse Bay are well spaced and are good value for £12.00 a night.  Outer islands (with wild goats) protect the bay from the East, although all the weather is from the hills in the West at the moment.  We sat in the cockpit and sipped an evening drink before escaping the cold wind below (about 10 minutes on deck was sufficient).  On the radio, the Southerners are still wittering on about a heat wave.  Very amusing. Old Harbour, Craighouse Next day we rowed ashore, against a still strong breeze, to the neat little harbour.  Here there is all you ne...